The Postal will be to SAM 35 V20 Rules

2026 Postal Dates

2 rounds April 1^st – June 30^th and July 1^st – Sept 30^th.  

TOTF (Total of 3 Flights) to a 60 max with a fly-off if required. All times in each round to be set on the same day. If you achieve 3 maxes then do a fourth fly-off time.  Send your times, details of your model, timer, when and where set to webmaster@oxfordmfc.bmfa.uk

ROUND 2 – JULY 1ST – SEPTEMBER 30TH

Name	Model	Timer	Flight 1	Flight 2	Flight 3	Total	Location	Date
Pete Brown	HP Sportster	A Longhurst J Paton	46	60 max	60 max	166	Port Meadow	8-7
Andrew Longhurst	Trim	P Brown J Paton	60 max	60 max	60 max	180	Port Meadow	17-7
Gary Law	Wasp III	Self	50	53	60 max	163	Port Meadow	20-7
Lionel Lawey Proxy G Law	Skylark	Self	60 max	55	60 max	175	Port Meadow	20-7
Bob Lee	Wasp III	A Trinder	37	60 max	54	151	Port Meadow	1-8

Round 1 1st April – 30 June 2026

Name	Model	Timer	Flight 1	Flight 2	Flight 3	Total	Location	Date	F/O
Andrew Longhurst	Kropps-modell	P Brown	60 max	60 max	60 max	180	Port Meadow	29/5	1’23”
Richard Fryer	Castor	P Brown	60 max	60 max	60 max	180	Port Meadow	19/6	46”
Pete Brown	HP Sportster	R Fryer	46	56	59	161	Port Meadow	19/6
Bob Lee	Wasp III	P Brown	39	30	26	95	Port Meadow	30/6

2025 Results 

Round 1 1st April – 30th June

Name	Model	Timer	Flight 1	Flight 2	Flight 3	Total	Location	Date	Pos
Andrew Longhurst	The Trim	J Paton	60 max	60 max	60 max	180	Port Meadow	17/4	1
Jim Paton	Tubby	A Longhurst	51	58	60 max	169	Port Meadow	30/4	2
David King	Wasp	Self	36	60 Max	60 Max	156	Port Meadow	30/6	3
Chris Brainwood	KK Elf	Self	35	40	60 Max	135	Port Meadow	23/5	4

Round 2 – 1st July – 30 September

Name	Model	Timer	Flight 1	Flight 2	Flight 3	Total	Location	Date	F/O
Andrew Longhurst	Dizzy Diamond	J Paton	60 max	60 max	60 max	180	Port Meadow	2/8	2m17
Jim Paton	Elite Elf	A Longhurst	60 max	60 max	60 max	180	Port meadow	2/8	1m20
Andy Blackburn	Wasp III	P Brown	60 Max	60 Max	60 Max	180	Port meadow	30/9	1m11
Richard Fryer	Goblin	J Paton	50	60 max	60 max	170	Port Meadow	10/9
Chris Brainwood	KK Elf	S Dennis B Lee	48	42	39	128	Port Meadow	2/8
Pete Brown	KK Elf	D King	31	34	54	119	Port Meadow	6/8
Gary Law	Wasp	T Gautrey	16	46	31	93	Bucky	18/8
David King	Chad	P Brown	60 Max			60

 OMFC’s V20 Postal Competition – Andrew Longhurst 

A couple of years ago I received a call from Tony Rushby, doyen of small model flying. He wanted to discuss a new competition class that SAM 35 would promote. The intention was to have a class which probably won’t outfly a small field or our capability of retrieving it a few times in an hour or two: Rules are: 

• 20ins max span (measured tip to tip on model) 
• Design published or kitted pre1951 
• Rubber power only – as much as you want 
• 7.25ins max prop diameter (180mm) freewheel or folder (need not be as per plan) 
• ROG Capable, so must have an undercart although ROG will not be used 
• Max to be 60 seconds or as per decision of the organiser 

I felt a bit dubious about allowing folding props and the apparently strange maximum diameter of 7.25ins, but Tony wouldn’t budge. 

Props 

If you think 7.25 is a strange diameter for the prop, this is the size of the excellent 1952 KK plastic prop which being indestructible, if rather heavy, are still to be found in dusty cupboards nationwide. New 7 and 8ins ultra-light plastic pops are available from the Vintage Model Co. and elsewhere. You can cut an 8ins prop down, which is what I recommend as this has the effect of increasing the pitch slightly. You can resist the temptation to carve your own balsa prop because at this size it won’t be much better than a plastic one. Folding props offer an advantage but only if two bladed so it’s a right fiddle at this size. Perhaps we can agree not to go there? 

What model to build? Basically, it’s what you fancy. See my list of 28 with small scale plans in my Google album via this link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Nz6gZ7Fgse4RoMti9 

Sixteen of them are full-size on Outerzone for free download. Print them in the free version of Adobe Acrobat using the “Poster” option and join up the A4 sheets with Prit Stick. 

If you want a kit, Rudolf Hiesbok In Czechoslovakia sells the Sparrow which is a replica of a 1940s USA design called the High Performance Sportster. It’s a world-renowned fine flyer and the original title is no misnomer. You will need to add a peg leg undercart to comply with the rules. £23 + Postage from www.Hiesbok.CZ. I have checked with Rudolph who commands good English and he can supply to the UK. I built and reviewed this kit in 2022 and it was of excellent quality. Copies of my review are available from me. 

Or there is a KK Playboy from the Vintage Model Company, but it’s a bit difficult and I think best avoided. At the time it was created there was pressure on workaholic Bill Dean and he just drew up a half size Gypsy Wake being the model he was then using in competitions. Consequently, the aspect ratio is too high. Furthermore, Bill forgot the underfin and it needs one (according to Tony Rushby). I got mine to climb all right, but it won’t glide worth a darn. 

Anyway, you don’t really need a kit for such a small model as it’s only a few sticks, a plastic prop and a dozen ribs. A spar tractor (stick) model is actually more difficult than a conventional model in the long run, so I haven’t put any in the Google Album (Hanger Rat etc.). But remember, the 21ins Cloud Tramp is probably too big unless you have built in a lot of dihedral. There is always the nearly all-balsa Veron Skylark which can give a good account of itself. 

I am told members are likely to prefer cabin models and there are three that I have built and are terrific, that is, the Wasp III, the Veron Snipe and the Skyleada Swallow. 

As always, weight is very important and your target for these three would be under 30g without rubber. The Snipe is always going to be the lightest and therefore the highest climber. 

If you have never built a stick and tissue rubber job before or can’t remember the details, there are several videos on YouTube. For instance; “TFFC: Flying Ace Moth, Tucson Free Flight Club” 

Motors 

The basic rule is that the length of the motor should not be greater than 1.5 x the distance between front and rear rubber hooks. You will probably use 4 strands of 1/8 SuperSport. If you start with 6g it should take 1100 turns. You can work out the turns per inch from this if you want a longer motor, but longer motors will knot and bunch. When winding, stretch to about three or four times the motor length and put on half turns then move slowly in toward the model whilst winding so that you arrive at the model at the max turns you have decided upon. If you end winding still some distance from the model and then march in without winding, the motor will bunch. There is a bit of an art to it. Apologies if you know this already. 

CG Position, Decalage and Thrust Line 

Before you take the model out to fly, make sure you have 4 degrees negative incidence between wing and tail. It’s not important to which surface this is applied. The CG is often not shown on vintage plans, but CG at 50% chord usually works. With a tapered wing, balance it at mid span. These models fly right on power and glide, so you should also check you have a modest amount of down and right thrust sanded into the nose. If you do these three things and the wing and tail are warp free, nine times out of ten it will fly out of your hand. A tiny amount of left rolling wing warp can be helpful but the opposite is doom! I find that time spent in fettling is rarely wasted. 

To DT or not to DT 

The great advantage of having a DT may not be what you think. It just makes trimming so much faster especially when you have got it gliding and are trying fine tune the thrust line, which I do with .5mm ply shims. My Snipe has a great climb but the glide is fairly steep and although I fitted a DT and set it, I didn’t really think it needed it. But one flight it found some good air and made a bid for freedom in the direction of the boat racks, but the wing pop up DT got it back…just. 

The advantage of not having a Tomy or Band Burner DT is it saves 3+grams, something like 10% and performance will be positively affected in much the same proportion. A viscous timer is much lighter but not very accurate. 

The DT action will involve the wing LE rising to about 40 degrees or the wing TE rising to about 20 degrees. Leave the tailplane alone. If the fin is mounted on it, make sure its keyed in so it can’t move. They are extremely sensitive to rudder adjustments so use half inch pieces of 1/16 square strip on the extreme TE of the fin. Use balsa cement rather than cyano as its easier to reverse. 

If anyone reading this has virgin Tomy motors stored somewhere, get them to me for conversion to single function timers. This service is free. If you don’t want them, still send them so I can distribute to others. 

Stooges 

Most rubber flyers possess a stooge to hold the model whilst winding but they can be ultra simple for such small models. I like this one, but it should be much smaller than shown, say about 2/3rds and the mounting board angled upwards. 

There is another one on: www.endlesslift.com/make-a-simple-foot-stooge. 

I can supply building and trimming notes for almost all of the red and white models displayed on the Google album. Plans on Outerzone are noted on the spreadsheet. For plans of other models contact me. 

Andrew Longhurst, 45 Pavilion Way, Ruislip, HA4 9JR Tel. 079048 706402 

E mail andrewlonghurst@yahoo.com